New Pattern: Cuddle Toes

It may have been a while since I published a new pattern but boy am I excited to be releasing this new pair of cozy's for your feet:

Cuddle Toes

Join our KAL!

I've partnered with PostStitch for the December SockStitch and we're hosting a KAL to knit up these adorable sport-weight socks in the weeks leading up to Christmas. You can order a kit directly through Ewe Ewe Yarns and join us for some December sock knitting!

The KAL will be hosted in my Ravelry Group: https://www.ravelry.com/groups/the-unapologetic-knitter and we're casting on today, December 5th. The KAL will run from December 5th to 23rd - with any luck you'll have cuddle-ier toes just in time for Christmas! 

Here's the details on the pattern. I hope to knit along with you!

The Story

Winter is on its way and we’re dreaming about cuddling up by the fire with a warm drink and maybe, just maybe, some knitting to keep our hands busy. But what about our poor little toes

They need something to feel good about, too, so these quick-to-knit sport weight socks are just the ticket!

Materials

  • Ewe Ewe Yarns ‘Ewe So Sporty’ (sport weight; 100% fine merino wool, superwash; 145 yds/50g):
    • 1 (2, 2) skeins: 95 Chocolate (brown; MC)
    • 1 skein: 05 Cotton Candy (pink; CC)
  • US 3 (3.25mm) 32” circular needle (for Magic Loop method)
  • 2 Stitch markers
  • 1 Removable stitch marker (optional)

Finished Sizes

Small (Medium, Large): 7 (8.25, 9.5) inches circumference; recommended fit: 0.25 to 0.5 inches of negative ease. Sample is knit in a size medium and modeled on an 8.5 inch foot.

Project Gauge

27 sts and 32 rows = 4 inches in Colorwork pattern, after blocking

Notes

  • These socks are worked from the top-down: the cuffs are cast on with a German Twisted Cast-On, utilize a modified Eye of Partridge heel gusset, and are finished by using the Kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed. Detailed instructions or links to tutorials are provided for all techniques.
  • Written instructions are provided for the Cast On, Cuff, Heel and Toe; charted instructions are provided for the Leg and Instep of the sock.
  • The right and left socks are identical to one another; make two socks to complete a pair.
  • Adjust needle size as necessary to match gauge.
  • The Colorwork design varies slightly between sizes; make sure you use the correct Colorwork Chart for the size of sock being knit.
  • The Colorwork section of the sock is worked as stranded knitting. It is recommended to use the CC as the dominant yarn (carried below the MC). On any of the non-colorwork rounds, where carrying the CC is required, catch the CC with the MC every 4th stitch; try to avoid stacking your caught stitches where possible.
  • The instructions are written for the smallest size of sock with additional sizes in parentheses. Where only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.
  • To save on yarn, and avoid large numbers of ends to weave in, carry the CC up inside the sock between the colorwork rows.
  • This pattern is written for the Magic Loop technique. For DPN users, assume that the Front needle is synonymous with Needles 1 and 2, and the Back needle is synonymous with Needles 3 and 4.

 

April KALFH #3: Washed Ashore hat

If you follow me on Instagram, #yearofhats is probably the hashtag I should be using! 2017 is proving to be a hat-filled year and I'm pretty darn excited about that. 

Washed Ashore by Lesley Anne Robinson

Basic... but not!

As knitters, I feel like we can appreciate the time and effort that goes into every project we create. But sometimes, its relaly  nice to find a project that flies off thte needles. And weirdly enough, this lovely hat does just that! 

Worked in two layers, you'll blaze through the inner hat and marvel at the beauty of the outer hat. 

Tips for the Inner Hat 

  • You basically knit two hats - but the inner hat is worsted weight so it knits up in just hours. It seems crazy to make an entire inner hat of which you only see the brim, but it's worth it once you work the outer layer and you can see the inner hat color popping through the lace work.
  • I made the size small and am modeling it above on a 22" circumference head. 
  • When you complete the inner hat, clip a removable marker to the brim at the beginning of round so you know where your beg of round is for beginning the outer hat.

Tips for the Outer Hat

Lesley has provided a great video on picking up the stitches which is super duper helpful! Using the removable marker that you clipped to your brim when you finished the inner hat, begin picking up the stitches per Lesley's video.

  • I found it much easier to use a crochet hook to pick up 4 stitches at a time and place it on the US 3 needle. 
  • For both sizes, you can pick up 4 stitches for every 3 on the original hat: pick up 1 stitch for each column of knit stitches you see, and then create a 4th by picking up a stitch between columns every 3 sts. 
    • For size small, you'll get exactly the right number of stitches if you work in this 4 for 3 pattern.
    • For size large, you'll be a 6 stitches short. So work 1 additional round of *k23, kfb; rep from * to end to get to the required 150 sts.
  • Once all the stitches are picked up, use a tapestry needle to thread the tail of the picked up stitches to the inside of the hat for weaving in later.
  • I found it easier to work the outer hat with the inner hat turned inside out and hanging down, outside the outer hat. 
  • BUT! When its time to cinch the top of the outer hat closed, push the inner hat back up inside the outer hat so you can attach the two layers of hat at the top by pushing the tail of the outer hat through the top of the inner hat, and weaving in the ends. 

Blocking

Due to the thickness of this hat, and therefore it's lack of "slouchiness" I recommend wet blocking this hat to your heads dimension, being careful not to block out the brim. 

So, I soaked the hat and squeezed the water out without wringing or twisting. Then I blew up a balloon to 22" circumference and put the hat over the balloon. The beautiful part of that is that the hat will fit my head comfortably, but the balloon is narrow enough at the bottom that it won't stretch out the brim. Let the balloon rest on a mug or glass and dry completely. It'll take a little longer than normal since it's 2 layers thick. I "helped" mine dry by placing the cup on top of my floor heating register. Dried in no time! ;) 

Keep in touch!

Thanks for knitting along with us on this project! If you're on social media, feel free to tag #unapologeticknitter (or use @notsorryknitter on IG) so I can see your amazing creations! I can't wait to KALFH with you! 

April KALFH #2: Deco Mug Mat

Oooh doggie I'm excited about today's project! I really enjoy brioche but haven't had a chance to play with it in quite some time. But the time has come and I got to work up this adorable mug mat in just hours! My fingers are itching to get some more brioche on my needles! 

Deco Mug Mat by Lesley Anne Robinson

That's Brioche, Baby!

Brioche is lauded as a "scary" technique, or something that a noob knitter can't do. WRONG! (in my opinion). Sure, it's maybe not the first thing you should try when you pick up knitting needles for the first time, but like any skill, if you practice, you will overcome! And this lovely little mug mat is just the ticket for learning brioche! 

I actually believe that 2-color brioche is easier to learn than one color because you can see what the columns are doing. When the RS is facing, your brk (brioche knit) stitches will look like V's, just like standard knitting (the brown yarn in the above photo), and your brp (brioche purl) stitches will look kind of like W's - or really wide V's with a purl bump in the middle (the variegated yarn in the above photo). 

Basic Brioche Stitches:

  • brk - brioche knit (read as: ‘bark’): knit the stitch together with its wrap.
  • brp - brioche purl (read as: ‘burp’): purl the stitch together with its wrap.
  • sl1yo - slip 1 with yarn in front, yarn over: this combination of actions is what creates the wrapped stitch, which is the basis of brioche.
    • Sl1yo after a brk or knit stitch: bring working yarn to the front between the needles, slip next stitch purlwise, then move the working yarn over the RH needle and the slipped stitch to the back, as if to yarn over; the working yarn is now in position to brk (or knit) the next stitch.
    • Sl1yo after a brp or purl stitch: leaving the working yarn in the front, slip next stitch purlwise, then move the working yarn over the RH needle and the slipped stitch and around to the front of the work between the needles, as if to yarn over; the working yarn is now in position to brp (or purl) the next stitch.

Video Support!

I have a slew of How to Brioche videos on YouTube. Please be kind. They were made a few years ago and were the first videos I ever made. I may have used the wrong word here or there but for the most part, you should find them quite helpful. Here is a full list of videos for each of the skills used in this project:

Tips and Tricks for the project

Brioche in general

Brioche is simply a combination of slipped stitches and YO's worked simultaneously. The three tips I tell people are as follows:

  1. If you see an unwrapped stitch, give it a wrap.
  2. If you see a wrapped stitch, take away the wrap (by knitting or purling the stitch and it's wrap together). 
  3. When working the slipped stitch and YO simultaneously, the working yarn should always be in the front. So If you're knitting, bring the working yarn to the front before slipping a stitch. If you're purling, lucky you, the working yarn is already in front! 

The Cast On

This pattern begins with a Super Stretchy Slipknot cast-on. There is a link right in the pattern to video support which is awesome. I, however, chose to do a German Twisted Cast-On instead since I know my tension is loose enough. I recommend trying both techniques and choosing the one that suits you best. 

The reason I chose the German Twisted is because I know that MY brioche tension is super floopy. Yep - floopy. It's just far looser than I like so the German Twisted, while stretchy, gives me a bit of control over that bottom edge by being a nice structured cast-on. 

If you're unfamiliar with the German Twisted Cast on, here is a video tutorial to get you going: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_FbiKdetFk

Needle Size

I also changed needle sizes. I know that my gauge in brioche is quite loose so I worked the project on a US 6 instead of a US 7. 

Row 5 MS CC

Row 5 using the Counter Color (i.e.: the row that we work brp's) is the first time we encounter processing stitches after an increase. As you come to the 3 stitches created on the previous row, worked as brkyobrk, process these 3 sts as (sl1yo, p1, sl1yo). You will process brkyobrk's this way on all CC rows.  

Weaving in those pesky ends!

Ugh... I LOATHE having to weave in ends, but it's all part of the knitting game, isn't it? But guess what? Weaving in ends on brioche is the EASIEST. For serious - I wish weaving in ends on all other knit fabrics was this easy. 

I've got a quick video on weaving in ends so that your fabric will look tidy on each side.  Just remember: weave in the CC with the RS facing; weave in the MC with the WS facing. 

Video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ah3u0p6rdRg

Finishing

I wet block all of my brioche - I feel that it gives the project the best chance to smooth out an inconsistencies in the fabric. Just be aware that brioche, when wet, looks CA-RAZY! It stretches out a ton and you'll feel like your work is ruined. But fear not, my brioche-y friends. As the fabric dries and the yarn shrinks back up, your project will be bouncy and delightful. I soaked my mug mat, squeezed the water out (without wringing or twisting it) and laid it flat to dry - without pins! I feel that this gives the fabric the best chance of snugging back up to its original shape. 

If you like to pin things out, go for it! Lesley has a wonderful pictorial in the pattern to show you how to pin out the project. And that's why we love Lesley! 

Keep in touch!

Thanks for knitting along with us on this project! If you're on social media, feel free to tag #unapologeticknitter (or use @notsorryknitter on IG) so I can see your amazing creations! I can't wait to KALFH with you!